Topic: Buell 1125R (Read 14758 times)

Puzzled · « **Reply #245 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:54:40 pm »

The heads are done and were shipped today. I will O-Ring them when they get here and than I should be ready for final motor assembly.

Heads,
42mm TI Intake valves
35.4MM TI Exhaust valves
Beryllium Copper Seats
Del West bronze guides
"Stage 3" port work
.010" milled surface

With a .032 head gasket I'm looking at 15.4 to 1 compression.
With a .043 head gasket I'm looking at 14.75 to 1 compression.

My valve to piston clearance will determine which head gasket I go with (silly puddy time).

Looks like I'm down to the pipe as far as parts go that I'm aware of. I'm sure there will be something I forgot along the way. I still have body work to sort out also.

Puzzled · « **Reply #246 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:55:12 pm »

I was finally able to get a few moments to work on the heads this morning. The objective was to add a receiver groove for an "O-ring" seal. The "O-ring" is simple MIG wire. Since the cylinder wall thickness is thin to start with the receiver groove will be cut in the head as opposed to the cylinder. By adding the "O-ring" this will help with sealing the cylinder to the head.

Here are a few shots of the heads after they came back from Revolution.

Puzzled · « **Reply #247 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:55:39 pm »

Mating the cylinders to the heads to scribe the lines on the heads to mark where the cylinders sit.

Puzzled · « **Reply #248 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:56:07 pm »

The lines on the heads to indicate where the cylinders sit.

Puzzled · « **Reply #249 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:56:31 pm »

Making the cutting tool.....

Puzzled · « **Reply #250 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:57:03 pm »

Setting the head and cutting tool up to find center.

Puzzled · « **Reply #251 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:57:35 pm »

Once the head and cutting tool were set up next up was to locate where the "O-ring" groove was going to be cut. The gasket bore diameter, cylinder wall thickness, wire thickness and head gasket thickness all determined where and how deep the groove gets cut.

Puzzled · « **Reply #252 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:58:03 pm »

All cut.

Dave · « **Reply #253 on:** October 16, 2011, 09:23:17 am »

lookin' good..

wolf · « **Reply #254 on:** October 16, 2011, 11:55:20 am »

Yea, I did not know they use Bronze seats and guides. I never been in one of the Buell motors.

Bibs · « **Reply #255 on:** October 16, 2011, 03:35:31 pm »

Thats some damn fine work!!!
What cubic inch displacement will the motor be when she's done?
What do you think the HP will come out to?

Puzzled · « **Reply #256 on:** October 17, 2011, 01:40:16 pm »

Quote from: Bibs on October 16, 2011, 03:35:31 pm

Thats some damn fine work!!!
What cubic inch displacement will the motor be when she's done?
What do you think the HP will come out to?

Thank you.

The motor will be a 1250cc.

HP should be in the 180 range at the wheel. Some of those I worked with during the sourcing of the parts suspect a little more due to the fact I don't have the size constraints that the AMA guys have.

Lightnin · « **Reply #257 on:** October 17, 2011, 11:01:25 pm »

That is going to be a strong motor.... looking at some of the pics, are you going to trim the rough edges in the combustion chamber? looking at the "edge" between the exhaust valves, it looks like that is an area that could disrupt flow, and the way you are building this engine it's all about the flow

Puzzled · « **Reply #258 on:** October 30, 2011, 01:33:59 am »

The weather has turned to snow here in N.E. PA. so now I'll get my butt back in the garage and finish up the project drag bike.

I have come across two affordable rebuilt/salvage bikes that I'm attempting to pick at least one of them up. I'd like to have a street-drag bike to goof around with along with my street and drag bikes. This would allow me to make a few changes to the current project bike and build a little more serious drag oriented bike while not goofing with my street bike. I missed a few rides with my street bike as I didn't feel like converting it back to street use. I'm looking to avoid that.

Puzzled · « **Reply #259 on:** October 30, 2011, 01:49:54 am »

I started working on the fairing today in an attempt to get the XBRR style cold air intake to work. I have several hours into what seems like very little work. I have to make a piece to adapt the carbon fiber to the fairing. Since I have zero expierence with fiberglass I'll make it out of tin. Metal work I can do...

This is the area I have to fill in.

Puzzled · « **Reply #260 on:** October 30, 2011, 01:52:20 am »

Third version of my paper template.

Now to transfer it to metal....

It is hard to see in the pictures the size of the scoop. I have close to 18 square inches of opening.

wolf · « **Reply #261 on:** October 30, 2011, 01:58:49 am »

Wish you lived closer I have done a bunch of fiber-glassing in my day. But I am sure you will have it looking sharp with the metal. Keep the pic's coming.

cw1 · « **Reply #262 on:** October 30, 2011, 11:18:55 am »

not trying to be a smartass, but is this going to be a bike or a

? never seen a bike with a body like that on it.
Haven't been around Buel's that much, is it possible to put one in a real HD motor's place and ride it and look as good as a chop?
Just curious here..........

wolf · « **Reply #263 on:** October 30, 2011, 12:12:45 pm »

Aerodynamic Look, he is going for a land speed record CW.

Puzzled · « **Reply #264 on:** October 30, 2011, 12:24:17 pm »

Quote from: cw1 on October 30, 2011, 11:18:55 am

not trying to be a smartass, but is this going to be a bike or a ? never seen a bike with a body like that on it.
Haven't been around Buel's that much, is it possible to put one in a real HD motor's place and ride it and look as good as a chop?
Just curious here..........

It is still a bike... I need to move way more air into the motor than a traditional intake can move. Since my Rotax motor is a top/down draft setup that is the best way to force the air into the airbox. I'm not certain what a real HD motor is, you mean air cooled pushrod underpowered tractor motor? Since the Rotax is water cooled you would have to contend with the cooling system. Think of this motor as the smaller in size version of the V-Rod (side note, the V-Rod was suppose to be the first liquid cooled Buell until HD fucked it up by "fattening" the motor to the point it was to big to fit in a Buell chasis). Power to weight it would make a good hot rod motor. Than again the import stuff can be had for less pennies.

Puzzled · « **Reply #265 on:** October 30, 2011, 12:28:43 pm »

Quote from: wolf on October 30, 2011, 12:12:45 pm

Aerodynamic Look, he is going for a land speed record CW.

Close, drag racing with aerodynamics in mind for less aero drag. Once the bike is assembled I'll sit on it and see if I can trim the fairing down to make it close to my shoulder/body width.

cw1 · « **Reply #266 on:** October 30, 2011, 02:16:58 pm »

Quote from: Puzzled on October 30, 2011, 12:24:17 pm

Quote from: cw1 on October 30, 2011, 11:18:55 am
not trying to be a smartass, but is this going to be a bike or a ? never seen a bike with a body like that on it.
Haven't been around Buel's that much, is it possible to put one in a real HD motor's place and ride it and look as good as a chop?
Just curious here..........

It is still a bike... I need to move way more air into the motor than a traditional intake can move. Since my Rotax motor is a top/down draft setup that is the best way to force the air into the airbox. I'm not certain what a real HD motor is, you mean air cooled pushrod underpowered tractor motor? Since the Rotax is water cooled you would have to contend with the cooling system. Think of this motor as the smaller in size version of the V-Rod (side note, the V-Rod was suppose to be the first liquid cooled Buell until HD fucked it up by "fattening" the motor to the point it was to big to fit in a Buell chasis). Power to weight it would make a good hot rod motor. Than again the import stuff can be had for less pennies.

Didn't mean NO Farm tractor motor, was talking about A shovel head type, didn't know you were using a Rotax motor, I understand about the airflow, just didn't realize what the body was for, good luck on the speed record using a Rotax motor and have fun,grinn.

Puzzled · « **Reply #267 on:** October 30, 2011, 02:35:06 pm »

LOL, I know what you were referring to (I still call all air cooled motors tractor motors, the equivalent of the technology IMO). The air cooled motors just can't make the same power for the dollar as the liquid cooled motors. As an example my 124" Big Twin at almost double the cc's makes 80% of what my stock Rotax does. I'm guessing that number will change to somewhere around 60% with the new motor. Of course an air cooled V-Twin still sounds bad ass at the track.

Puzzled · « **Reply #268 on:** October 30, 2011, 08:36:51 pm »

I worked on the bike a little this morning. After cleaning the lift off which obviously had become a storage bench I was good to go. I started out with just setting the parts up and re-familiarizing myself with them. Next up was file fitting the rings. CP has me running the rings a little looser than the stock rings. I have a ring set which I have no idea where they go. I called Terry from CP and he stated they are a filler ring of sorts to go under the oil pack. The measurements didn't seem right however I'll go back out and double check. From there I'll call CP Tech tomorrow. I forgot that I have to assemble the heads also. So if I can't figure out the rings I'll start on the heads.

Puzzled · « **Reply #269 on:** November 09, 2011, 02:20:18 pm »

Ok I got it figured out now. The mystery rings are for if the pin height protruded into the ring land, mine doesn't so I don't use them. I'm back on track now. I'm sitting here file fitting the second ring set and will call it a night once it is finished. I'd like to get back out this week and get the pistons attached to the rods and the cylinders down over the bolts.

Puzzled · « **Reply #270 on:** November 09, 2011, 02:35:03 pm »

I now have the rings all file fitted and on the pistons. Next up was installing the pistons on the rods. I do have the piston clip installer but for the life of me I sure can't figure out how it is suppose to work. So I did it the old fashioned way, with my fingers and a small blade screw driver. 8, eight is the number of times I dropped one clip down in the motor before I developed a "system" to install the clips. I had intentions of installing the cylinders when I realized I don't have a ring compressor that will work on this bike. I ordered one that I should have here sometime next week.

wolf · « **Reply #271 on:** November 09, 2011, 02:41:24 pm »

Looking good won't be long now, and we should hear a video of that bad boy fired up.

Puzzled · « **Reply #272 on:** November 10, 2011, 02:18:02 am »

I sure hope so.

I'm going to look into having a swing arm built for the bike 12" over with affixed wheelie bar mounts. The arm and bars will add another 2' to the bike over what it is now. I hope that is enough to get it to hook!

wolf · « **Reply #273 on:** November 10, 2011, 11:51:37 pm »

Just wondering as I have never raced anything but on the street. Are they stringent rules as to what length are special safety features that you are required to have?

Puzzled · « **Reply #274 on:** November 11, 2011, 03:14:49 am »

The bars can't be any longer than the wheel base. The overall length is based on which class you run in. These are things I'll have to plan for.

There are a few safety items they require which most of I run already, hell it's for my safety! There are minimum heights as well as maximum lengths. It will get interesting.

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