Topic: Puzzled's drag car project... (Read 4650 times)

Puzzled · « **on:** March 20, 2009, 12:08:36 pm »

Here it is almost 6 years since I have last raced my car and I'm actually thinking I may finish it this year! It has been better than three years since I picked up my short block assembly to build the new motor. The motor itself has been done for over a year. It is time......

Here are the motor build details.

Ford Motorsport 8.2" R block
4.125 bore
3.400 stroke
Lunatti Pro Billet crank
Lunatti Pro Billet rods
Diamond pistons 14.76:1 total compression
Predator 795/738 cam
Moroso billet electric water pump,
SFI dampener
TRE Sheet Metal intake
BLP 1050 Dominator flowing 1238 CFM
Yates C-3 heads by Ernie Elliot 2.15 IN 1.60 EX
Jesel valve train 1.70 IN 1.65 EX

The motor was dyno'd with a soft tune and crappy headers right after assembly. It made 700/495. Stepped on some with good headers it made 740/520. Once it loosens up some there may be a couple of extra ponies in there. I didn't apply Nitrous while on the dyno so the HP numbers with "juice" are speculation. I have all of my data from the previous motor on the dyno so I should be very close. I'm figuring I'll be 10-20 HP under 1100 on a 300hp shot

The motor was built with the sole intention that it IS a Nitrous motor. So this opened up the cam specs some hurting my NA power. On the plus side when the Nitrous is applied it will really turn on.

Next on my list of things is a transmission. I have a very good C-4 in it now. After doing some research it appears that I may have an issue with overpowering the 10.5" tires at this power level with the gears in the C-4. At this point a Glide is a fine choice (for the dollar). So that is what I'm going to go and order tomorrow. I know there are better choices such as several of the manual four speeds. The down side is they command a serious price tag.
UPDATE: I did go with a glide with a little lower low gear.

I have yet to get my Nitrous Fogger ordered up. I'm still reading about all the various manufactures out there. It appears I'll be going the custom flowed route as opposed to box stock stuff. I've narrowed it down to whom I'd like to use so it is now a matter of working out the details.

From there I'll need to address the rear axle housing. I'm still running an 8.8" rear in the car with Strange 31 spline axles and full spool. While I know it will handle a fair share of power I do need to upgrade to a 9". I'm still running 4 lug axles and drum brakes. 5 lug and disc's are in order. Again the expense is up there. I came across a 9" bolt in for my car which seems like a decent deal. Although I need to take care of the trans guy first.
UPDATE: After going to the track Sunday I'm going to keep the 8.8" for awhile longer.

After having a Rotary 12k twin post lift in my garage on the floor for five years I decided to finally put it together. I got the lift at such a great deal (free) I couldn't complain that it didn't come with any hardware. I ordered the hardware from McMaster Carr and that came in the next day which gave me no excuse to not put it together. I'm down to the wiring and hydraulic hoses.
Update: The lift is up and functioning.

Puzzled · « **Reply #1 on:** March 20, 2009, 12:09:32 pm »

Puzzled · « **Reply #2 on:** March 20, 2009, 12:12:26 pm »

After a LONG discussion I went with a Power Glide. My other trans of choice was going to be a Turbo 400. Three speeds are faster than two. So why the two speed than? The Glide will give me a softer low gear allowing me to leave harder and not over power the 10.5" tires. The RPM drop between gears is a little bigger with the two speed however we (the trans shop) feel that my motor will handle that just fine. When all is said and done the objective is to keep me in the 7000-8800 RPM range. I'm already cringing at spinning a small block that hard.

The trans of choice will consist of:
Stock Power glide case
JW SFI 157 bell housing
JW SFI flex plate
Dynamic converter (stall to be determined)
Vasco input shaft
1:80 gear set
Machined 8 clutch hub assembly
Pro Brake quick release trans brake
Deep alum pan

I'm still undecided on my rear gear set. After talking with the trans shop I'm going to soften my gear choice some. Why? Well the guys at Sepaneks (trans shop) compete in Comp Eliminator and those guys are all so close that they try to get every last HP to the track. I'm not after that. I'd like to have some room to grow. Again why? After a discussion with the Nitrous folks my intended usage appears to be on the "small" side. They would like to see me use more than I planned on. If I go this route after I get comfortable with the car I'd rather not have to tear it apart and re-gear.

I'm currently ordering my radiator hoses and fittings. This will get them set as to their location. From there I'll work on the alternator mounting. That should finish up the front of the motor. I need to get my Nitrous system ordered so I can plum it to the car. I figure it may be a little easier while the motor is out on the bench as opposed to leaning over the fenders. I'm curious if the motor will go into the engine bay with the exhaust bolted on. That would make my life easy for sure. I need to get some things made like a drive shaft (have to wait for the trans), I have to order a shifter for the Glide, new harness for the seat, window net and I'll be real close to needing a parachute.

Puzzled · « **Reply #3 on:** March 20, 2009, 12:16:24 pm »

I was at the track this past Sunday and there was a car there that is very close to my setup. That made me pay attention and subsequently feel like working on my car again.

This car was running 9.30's-9.40's on motor. I have a little more motor than he does but I probably have a little heavier car so we should be real close.

Let me get out the camera and wrenches......................

xylene61 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 20, 2009, 01:53:56 pm »

I love Mustangs. my ex drove a late model convertible, and I had a '66 coupe for 21 years. It was done up with a little 289, boss rods, small chamber heads, roller rockers, all the stuff you couldn't afford in the old days..........but WOW 9's is fast! The other good things about the glide, is the simplicity, strength, and less resistance. I drove a 350 Nova for a guy with a glide in it back years ago in pro et bracket racing. After pounding the fourspeed mustang, the glide was a walk in the park. Glad you resurrected this project, Mike. keep us posted.

Road Kill · « **Reply #5 on:** March 24, 2009, 02:49:27 pm »

The motor looks sweet, have had on a test stand yet? I don't think I saw a picture of your car? Nice project.

Puzzled · « **Reply #6 on:** April 05, 2009, 11:55:31 am »

Some older pics with the small motor.

Puzzled · « **Reply #7 on:** April 05, 2009, 11:56:36 am »

I have been plugging away at the car, little by little. It has taken me some time to re-familarize myself with it but I got a good handle on it now.

I have the motor sitting in place. I didn't want to bolt it in until I get the headers bolted on. The gaskets have been ordered and should be here any day if they aren't in already.

The transmission is bolted in and the convertor is spaced properly. That took awhile as the convertor and trans shaft are new hence they are tight. My bud John gave me a hand and it was a much welcomed hand. I picked up the SFI trans blanket a couple of days ago and I'll install it when I'm under there installing the headers. The convertor is a 5500 RPM unit made by Dynamic. I have had their convertors in my last four transmissions, they take some abuse.

Puzzled · « **Reply #8 on:** April 05, 2009, 11:57:24 am »

I worked on the alternator mounting for better than eight hours. I tried more combinations before I finally figured out something that should work.

This is what I was trying to make work.

This combination just wasn't strong enough to keep the alternator from flexing.

Puzzled · « **Reply #9 on:** April 05, 2009, 11:58:24 am »

I dug the box of pulleys out from the attic in hopes of finding something that would work.

I had two stock brackets for the right side and thought that if I flipped one and mounted it on the left it might work. This wasn't without some issues such and the tensioner was pushing in the wrong direction and the bracket was not thick enough to allow the pullies to line up.

I cut one of the factory brackets all to pieces to use it as a spacer behind the other one.

Puzzled · « **Reply #10 on:** April 05, 2009, 11:59:27 am »

Next up was pulley size and shaft speed. The industry standard is 16000 RPM for alternators. 4 3/8" crank and a 2 3/8" alternator pulley nets me 16578 RPM. I'm going to have to change the alternator pulley to a 2 1/2" pulley which will net me 15750 RPM shaft speed. If that doesn't cut it I'll go with a Powermaster which boasts a 18000 RPM capability shaft speed.

Among the boxes of stashed car parts was an idler that applied pressure clock wise. This was what I needed to put tension to the belt.

I was able to get two 7/16" bolts in to the head. The third bolt on the right is bolting the spacer to the bracket in an attempt to keep it square.

The spacer! I'm thinking of picking up a small powder coat system for stuff like this. I purchased one years ago and a bud confiscated it! I'd send my brackets out however I don't have them all ready to go so it may be best if I do them myself, at my pace.

Puzzled · « **Reply #11 on:** April 05, 2009, 12:00:10 pm »

Next up was the cooling system/radiator hoses. Since these are Yates heads and I'm using a sheet metal intake there is no water "neck". The heads have outlets that use 16AN fittings. I sourced an adapter from a race car shop that deals with Yates heads.

Puzzled · « **Reply #12 on:** April 05, 2009, 12:01:04 pm »

Neither the heads or the intake have a provision for a water temp sensor. I used the port in the adapter by drilling out a brass fitting to accept the probe from the gauge.

Puzzled · « **Reply #13 on:** April 05, 2009, 12:01:49 pm »

Here are the parts I needed to make the hoses.

Puzzled · « **Reply #14 on:** April 05, 2009, 12:02:35 pm »

I ordered the gears and a pinion yoke from Strange Thursday and they should be here mid week. I will install the pinion yoke and get a measurement for the driveshaft. I will be going with Moly however I'm undecided on diameter. The length will determine the diameter.

I started cleaning the body of the car. This is only waxed, it needs to be buffed.

The hood just clears the carb. This won't allow me to get any type of filter on it (although I never ran any filter on the old motor). I'm undecided on hood choice. I'm either going to go with a stock style glass hood and a cool scoop or a 6" lift off hood. The lift off is the less expensive way to go put than I have pins to deal with. The scoop won't be very "sleeper" looking. :rolleyes:

The car isn't in bad shape for a 92.

Even covered I'm surprised how much over spray and what not got on the car. Luckily it comes off with a little elbow grease.

Puzzled · « **Reply #15 on:** April 05, 2009, 12:03:37 pm »

Look at how dirty the interior of the car is! I offered to pay my daughter to clean it.

xylene61 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 06, 2009, 01:21:29 am »

that's gonna scream. Kool project.

woody · « **Reply #17 on:** May 03, 2009, 05:41:36 pm »

Very Kool indeed, Any updates on this Puzzled?

Puzzled · « **Reply #18 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:12:32 pm »

Yes!

I finished the rear as far as changing and setting up the gears. I set the back lash dead nuts on. I replaced all of the seals and bearings in the C-clip eliminators as one side was leaking and both sides had gouges in the bearings (My fault). I welded the rear tubes to the center section. While I was at it I changed the wheel studs from 1/2" to 5/8". That proved to be a son-of-a-bitch. Drilling the axles on the mill would only net me about one hole before I had to sharpen the drill bit. Hard shit. We guessed that the axles were somewhere around Rockwell 38-40. After talking to Strange Engineering they told me they were Rockwell 45. I had to order a tap for them as my standard taps just skated off of the material. I found a tap for Rockwell 40 that wasn't terribly priced. I went very slow with lots of cutting oil while tapping the holes.

The material is here for the braces I'm going to make for the rear with the exception of the rod ends. A few weeks back I hit one of our largest swap meets in Englishtown and found a bunch of parts for the car. I picked up an anti-roll bar for the rear, adjustable upper control arms and solid spherical bushings for the upper control arms. Two weeks ago I ordered solid motor and transmission mounts. I went and ground down/out most of the welds from when I first installed the sub-frame connectors. They not only looked horrible but I imagine they were not doing a whole lot either. After almost 12-13 years I replaced all of the parts in the gun of my welder. It was like having a new welder when I welded the sub-frame connectors in. And... finally I was able to get the drive shaft ordered. It showed up this past week almost a week early.

So next up is to get the rear suspension components in the car as well as the drive shaft. I still have to install the headers which I am not looking forward to, at all!. From there I should be entering the final stretch. Maybe not as I'd like to change a few things such as the fuel system and ignition system.

Dave · « **Reply #19 on:** May 08, 2009, 01:16:00 pm »

that body style is one of my favorites for a hot rod.. the other top choice for me is a 1964 , 2 door falcon station wagon body.. you've done a great job on this one.. i'm digging the work.. alot .. thers alot more work involved with this than there is building as bike.. being a ford guy.. i'm liking it..

Puzzled · « **Reply #20 on:** August 25, 2009, 01:59:18 am »

The gears going in! They proved to be a little bit of a challenge as my air gun just did not want to draw the pinion nut in. I picked up the new IR Titanium 1/2" gun which made the job easy. I had originally mis-understood Strange and where they wanted the back lash set at so I ended up taking it all apart and doing the job twice. I feel better knowing that it is dead on as opposed to close enough.

Puzzled · « **Reply #21 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:01:54 am »

Moving along......

The C-clip eliminators were leaking prior to me changing the gears so I tried to figure out why. The C-clip eliminators install over the the end of the OEM axle tube. The axle tube has to be ground down to allow the C-clip eliminator to sit flush. Not enough material removed will allow the bearing in the C-clip eliminator to be pre-loaded. To much material removed and you will have a leaking seal. My initial job from years ago was ever so close. It looks like I didn't remove enough material as I had score marks in both C-clip eliminator bearings. I changed all of the bearings, races and gaskets while I was in there. I than removed a little more material from the axle tube. The gaskets required a light bead of silicone just for self insurance. Once everything was installed I could tell the difference right away. The old setup was brutally hard to turn, that there should have told me something, live and learn.

Puzzled · « **Reply #22 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:02:41 am »

Puzzled · « **Reply #23 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:03:58 am »

Puzzled · « **Reply #24 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:04:23 am »

Suspension parts.

The Anit-Roll bar that I purchased came with the connecting rods on the right. They seemed small to me and had no provisions for adjusting them. I used a piece of Hexagon material and duplicated the rods. Now I can adjust the rods with a wrench easily.

Puzzled · « **Reply #25 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:04:48 am »

Suspension 2

Here are the Spherical solid upper bushing along with the adjustable upper control arms. These combined with my adjustable lowers should allow me to set my pinion angle where I want it.

Puzzled · « **Reply #26 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:05:09 am »

Suspension 3

Here is the Anti-Roll bar. The intentions of it are to keep both sides of the rear end of the car moving equally. I currently run air bags which was an inexpensive way to achieve what I was after. The down side of the air bag is how the car reacts down track. With the bar installed the car should track straight now.

Puzzled · « **Reply #27 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:05:34 am »

I changed the poly motor mounts out for a set of solid motor mounts as well as a solid transmission mount. I have never owned a car with solid mounts so I expect this to be something like my Chopper, rigid. The rear suspension will have solid bushings throughout also.

Puzzled · « **Reply #28 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:06:15 am »

I welded the rear axle tubes to the center section while I was at it. I took my time and followed the instructions of those who have done this while the rear was in the car. There were lots of little welds randomly placed as to try to keep from warping the tubes. Once finished I went around with a cover pass. I'm no welder by any means however I know those tubes won't move now!

Puzzled · « **Reply #29 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:09:47 am »

The headers are in, the starter is in, the starter wiring is complete, the transmission mount is in, the transmission cross member is in, the driveshaft is in, the motor mounts are in, the trans and oil dipsticks are in, the steering arm is in.........

Solid mounts installed. I had everything in place and tightened up, than decided to move the motor back another inch or so.

Puzzled · « **Reply #30 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:10:16 am »

The starter is close, real close. I tried clocking it in just about every position and this is the only one that worked. The lower bolt had to be installed prior to mounting the starter to the mounting plate.

Puzzled · « **Reply #31 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:12:33 am »

A fair share of time was spent on installing the steering shaft. Just like everything else, it is close, real close!

Puzzled · « **Reply #32 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:12:59 am »

The trans dipstick is from the Hot Rod line, not exactly race type stuff. I used it for the flexibilty. The instructions say to silicone the base of the dipstick to the trans. I can't forsee a Hot Rod guy doing that. as for me I thought the dipstick fit a little loose. SO..I think I'll try to fabricate a bracket that will hold the dipstick tube down and attach it to the transmission.

Puzzled · « **Reply #33 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:13:27 am »

Driveshaft, all Strange components throughout.

Puzzled · « **Reply #34 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:13:58 am »

The drive shaft loop is off center and I can't say why. I'll unbolt it and move it back over to center. I looked at the drive shaft I took out and I can see where it had come into contact with the bolts. This fall under "What the hell was I thinking" when I initially installed the hoop.

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